Glossary & Fragrance terminology
A B C D E F G H I J K L M N O P Q R S T U V W X Y Z
Accord:
A perfume accord is a balanced blend of notes which lose their individual identity to create a completely new, unified odor impression. Perfumer desires to have perfect blend of raw materials with proper balance, while creating a fragrance. When the materials are properly mixed, they are said to be in accordance with each other eventually end product losing individual identity to create a new original odor note . Also said, as the equivalent of a harmonious chord in music. It can be said that it is a blend of two or more fragrances to produce a unique fragrance, without the original fragrances mixed, distinctly detected. The accord or note is usually only a part of a perfumes composition. So we can say that accord remains unique when smelled, we can only smell a single note without detecting either of the mixed fragrances which were combined. The personality of a fragrance is determined by its basic accord. It can be compared to the combining of basic colors, like yellow and blue to make green. When you look at green, you don’t see the yellow or blue – just green. And when you smell an accord, you only smell one distinct fragrance, not either of the original fragrances that were combined. Agar wood: It is the wood from the Aquilaria tree. Also known as Oud or Aloes wood. Aromatic resin produced is widely used in India and Middle East as a source of incense and perfume. Aldehyde: Aldehyde is a chemical compound made by oxidizing alcohols to make resins and organic acids. The chemical group R- CHO. The word by itself usually refers to shorter (C6-C12) straight chain (aliphatic) aldehydes used in perfumery. Aldehydes Organic compounds present in many natural materials, which can also be synthesized artificially. Aldehydic : This is usually pointed to the “modern” group as earlier the various aliphatic Aldehydes were used to create this group were actually “modern” Basically, an aldehydic fragrance may be one to which aldehydes have been added because of their brilliance and incisive effect. Characteristics of all aldehydic fragrances are their brilliant and exciting top note. Aldehydic also refers to a certain fatty, oily aroma. It is said to be anointing oils in Greek . It refers to a certain fatty fragrance. Also indicates a smell which displays the character of the shorter (C6-C12) straight chained (aliphatic) aldehydes. A general term that usually refers to metallic and starchy notes. Many modern fragrances do not contain aldehydes in such large doses because they are perceived to be old-fashioned. Alcohol: The word used by itself usually refers to Ethyl Alcohol or Ethanol the main solvent used to carry perfume for extraits, colognes. When in a chemical name refers to the chemical group R-OH. Alcohol It is used in the process of making perfume. Its job is to carry the perfume extracts, and release them when the perfume is dispensed. It is used to break down solids and heavy oils. It also lends to the diffusion and blending of perfumes. It acts as a catalyst to the dilution adding a fresh lightness. Amber: In perfumery, this refers to accords developed using plant compounds (such as labdanum) or synthetics, and referred to as amber because they were originally meant to mimic the smell of ambergris . It is heavy, rich, sweet, full bodied aroma, slightly powdery, used in balsam and chypre perfumes to impart fullness, sweetness and warmth to a compound. Enhances the dry down of the fragrance and is of particular importance to the oriental type fragrance. Ambergris: It is a sperm whale secretion. Sperm whales produce it to protect their stomachs from the beaks of the cuttlefish they swallow. Ambergris was traditionally used as a fixative, but in modern perfumery, ambergris is usually of synthetic origin (including the synthetic compounds ambrox, ambroxan. Ambergris is described as having a sweet, woody odor. Abelmosk: Also known as Musk Mallow, and cultivated for its seeds, which are usually referred to as ambrette. Absinthe: A strong herbal liqueur distilled with herbs like anise, licorice, hyssop, veronica, fennel, lemon balm, angelica and wormwood. Ambrette: The oil obtained from Ambrette seeds has a musk-like odor and is frequently used as a substitute for true musk. Ambroxan: A synthetic compound created as a replacement for Ambergris . Animal: A perfume note of animal origin derived from the natural isolates of civet, castoreum or musk. These materials, plus some man-made synthetics have been used to demonstrate this subtle yet penetrating odor quality. An important note in the development of many fragrances used to impart richness and fullness to compositions. A general term describing scents of animalic origin such as some types of musk (musk deer), civet (civet weasel) and castoreum (beaver). Today the animalic materials have been replaced by synthetics, and the term animalic can apply more widely. Some plants also have animalic characters. Costus oil distilled from the roots of Saussuria Costus smells like dirty hair and mutton grease. Cumin oil obtained from the dried seeds of the cumin plant is warm and sweaty. Often strong and unpleasant in their concentrated form, in smaller amounts these notes provide depth to a fragrance. Animalic notes can be described as Faecal and unpleasant too. However, experienced perfumers recognize that in extreme dilution or clever combination they often display a very pleasant note. Civet Absolute is very faecal in pure form but when used in trashes gives a Lily Of The Valley note. Harmonious use of animalic notes gives a perfume a natural character. In extreme dilution they often have pleasant floral notes. The use of real animal products are rare in today’s perfumes, generally in recent times synthetics are used. Ansomia: The medical term describing the total absence of the sense of smell, i.e., the inability to detect or recognize any vapor. It can occur temporarily after taking antibiotics and other drugs, or the result of an infection, influenza-like illness, head injury, congenital abnormality or can be associated with severe allergic rhinitis. Total ansomia can occur as the result of injury or illness but is rare, partial anosmia is more common. Some people have selective anosmia to some raw materials. Musks are common materials some people cannot smell. Sometimes the first exposure to a new material may also have a similar effect. After several tries the ability to smell may improve. If one has full Anosmia, he cant smell anything. Partial Anosmia is a common phenomenon where people have selective insensitivity or blindness to particular materials smells or groups of smells. Aroma Chemical: Among the Perfumers primary tools, some synthetic aroma chemicals duplicate chemicals that naturally occur in nature. These are classified as nature identical aroma chemicals. The second category of aroma chemicals are those isolated from natural origins, and a third category are the synthetic aroma chemicals not known to be found in nature but contribute a unique odor value to help broaden a Perfumers library of tools. Should note be confused with the term Aromatic Chemicals that refers to the Benzene ring structure found in many organic compounds. Apocrine Sweat Glands: Apocrine sweat glands are those that give you your unique sexual and body scent. Which also contributes to the sexual and body scent in humans and which the excretions from which can influence the odour characteristics of an applied perfume. It can interfere with - or enhance - the scent of perfumes you wear. Aroma-cology: The science fairly new , coined by the Olfactory Research Fund in the late 1970, dedicated to the study of the interrelationship between psychology and aroma is dedicated to the study of the inter-relationship of psychology and the latest in fragrance technology to transmit through odor a variety of specific feelings… relaxation, exhilaration, sensuality, happiness and achievement directly to the right side of the brain the limbic system which is the seat of emotions, memory, creativity and sensuality. It was developed by Annette Green, a member of the Fragrance Foundation, in the late 70s. Also said to be one of the new alternative therapies. It is associated with fragrances and their psychological benefits and/or effects. Aromatic: It refers to the rich scent and aroma of Balsamic notes and to the Benzene ring structure found in many organic compounds. Aromatherapy: The therapeutic use of pure essential oils and herbs in body massage, the rest of which is described by proponents as “healing, beautifying and soothing” the body and mind, has its roots in the folk medicine practiced in primitive cultures. The history of aromatherapy stretches as far back as 6,000 years ago in ancient Egypt. It wasn’t until the 1920s, The term was actually coined by a French chemist, R.M. Gattefosse. Therapy with aroma. The art and science of using essential oils (although in theory any aromatic substance could be used) to heal common ailments and complaints. Can particularly helpful with stress or emotionally trigger problems such as insomnia and headaches. There is little clinical data to back up its efficacy in serious medical problems. Anise: An annual herb of the parsley family, grown for its fruits (aniseed), which have a strong, licorice-like flavor. Attar: Attar is the English form of itr, the Arabic word for fragrance or perfume. The word is from the ancient Persian word "to smell sweet." Attar Attar, or Otto. A traditional attar is made from the distilled essence of floral or other fragrance materials in a base of sandalwood oil. Attar Any fragrant essential oil distilled from flowers. Attar or Otto refers to essential oil obtained by distillation and, in particular, that of the Bulgarian rose, an extremely precious perfumery material. Attar .Its an extremely expensive essential oil made from the Bulgarian rose. Axon. Part of a nerve cell that conducts impulses away from the cell. Ayurvedic. The ancient Hindu art of medicine and of prolonging life. Aqueous: It refers to scents that are based on a concept of a aquatic or watery smell. |