Glossary & Fragrance terminology
A B C D E F G H I J K L M N O P Q R S T U V W X Y Z
Maceration:
This process is quite similar to enfleurage. In the latter cold fats are used, while in maceration the fats are heated. The flowers are immersed, the cells bearing the odoriferous oils are ruptured, and the fats absorb the oils. To obtain the pomade, the flowers are removed from the fats and fresh flowers are mixed in over and over again until the fats are completely saturated with the flower oil. Mastic: Also known as lentisc, a plant resin from a small shrubby tree (Pistacia lentiscus), the collected raw resin crystals are called “mastic tears” or “chios tears”. Mastic is used as a seasoning in Turkey and Egypt and is known for its medicinal properties. Mellow: A fragrance that gives a balanced, smooth and rich impression. Micro-Encapsulation: A method of incorporating thin-walled, microscopic capsules containing fragrance oils into a solid substance (fragrance advertising inserts, capsules, blotters, paper, etc.) The outer wall is formed from using surface active agents and waxes, gelatine etc. Encapsulated fragrances can be mixed with ink and printed onto advertising inserts, capsules, blotters, paper, etc. so that when the surface is scratched the perfume is released. Some flavors are encapsulated to lengthen shelf-life or to give 'time-release' properties to the application e.g.. for chewing gum flavors. Middle note: It is the middle or heart notes which makes up the main blend of a fragrance and classifies the fragrance family or accord. It fully develops after the top note mellows. It makes up the main theme or the heart of a perfume. They usually appear about 10-20 minutes after the perfume is applied. Modern: It is said in terms with Classic and Modern . The Modern era began at the beginning of the 20th century when synthetic aroma chemicals such as aldehydes, were first used. A modern fragrance is a harmonious conception of the perfumer based on new notes or harmonies often unknown in nature. Clean and ozone-like. aldehydes were unlike anything nature created. Hundreds of aroma chemicals have followed which lends excitement, complexity and stability to modern fragrances. Today’s vast array of different scents would not be possible without aroma chemicals. Modern perfumes are frequently identifiable from their lack of heavy, narcotic notes and their predominance of lighter florals. A modern perfume would be the opposite of a classic perfume – usually using new aroma chemicals, rather than natural materials. It usually has a light fragrance. Monoi: The word means “scented oil”; in modern perfumery, this most always refers to tiare (gardenia) petals macerated in coconut oil. Sometimes called Monoi de Tahiti. Mossy: Mossy odor suggests of the aromatic lichens, and mosses, primarily oak miss and tree moss; reminiscent of forest depths that have earthy notes, like the forest floor. Muguet: French for Lily of the Valley. One of the three most used florals in perfumery. Unlike jasmine and rose, a natural muguet absolute or essential oil has never really been commercially available and is reproduced with aroma chemicals. . The smell in perfumery is approximated by Hydroxycitronellal and more recent additions to the perfumers palette Lyral, Lilial. The Italian term is “Mughetto”. Musk: For many centuries, musk (the secretion of the musk deer) has been prized for its value in perfumery. The pouch contains pod-like grains that are soft and light colored. From these the perfumer prepares a tincture that is used as a fixative. Today, synthetic musks are widely used. Musky: There are many different types of musk, and every fragrance contains at least one of them. Some musks smell metallic and earthy, others are sweet and creamy. White musks, for instance, have a freshly ironed linen impression. Luminous musks, radiant musks, solar musks and other exotic musks that crop up in fragrance descriptions usually fall into the modern white musk category. Myrrh: It is a gum resin produced from a bush found in Arabia and Eastern Africa. |